Tuesday 25 September 2012

3 months on....Part 2!

If you've just tuned in, you missed last weeks blog where I answered a few questions from friends and family about my first 3 months in China.  I had so many good questions, I divided it into 2 parts.  Hence why this is called Part 2.

So, please sit back with your cup of tea or coffee, or glass of red (very appropriate, as red is a lucky colour in China) and enjoy part 2 of my first 3 months.  Let's start with a tough question.

Do they have honey chicken in China? (Jo Macarthur)

Trust you to ask me a question about food Jo Mac. For those that don't know, honey chicken is a popular item on Chinese menus in Australia.  And you will be glad to know Jo that I have had honey....prawns.  Sorry, I haven't had honey chicken yet.  But I am sure you would be able to find it somewhere.  I have tried many different dishes over the last 3 months, so I am sure there would honey chicken.  I'm just looking for the curried prawns and rice.

What did you think was really weird when you first arrived that you now consider normal? (Angela Heise)

Angela, I would love to say that I am getting used to people spitting on the street, but no.  I still find that pretty disgusting.  Probably not the actual spitting, but the clearing of the throat that precedes it.  I think the thing I found most weird, is the use of the car horn.  The car horn has become a tool in China for pretty much every road procedure you can imagine.  Changing lanes? Hit the horn.  Turning left? Yep, I'll give the horn a toot.  Warning the driver three lanes over that I am overtaking him?  Beep Beep.  Letting the car in front of me know that I am behind him?  Let's give the horn a try.

But, the horn is so overused in China that it has lost its power.  In my first few weeks hear, I would turn at the sound of every horn.  But now, it doesn't even make me blink.  However, the drivers believe it will protect them from anything.  The other night I was in a taxi when someone cut in front of us.  The driver actually went for the horn before he slammed on the brakes.  Hey buddy, the horn is not going to stop you from slamming your head against the dashboard when you hit that car in front!

Have you come across a Donna Chang? (Gemma Rule)

For non Seinfeld fans, this question might seem a little strange.  But for the rest of us, it will make you giggle. Gemma, no Donna Chang - but plenty of Changs.  I should ask the next Chang I meet if they have a sister called Donna.  And whether she is actually Chinese.

What is the most inspiring thing you have come across during your travels in China? (Keith Fowler - I took over from Keith!)

I should ask you the same thing as you were here for 4 years before me.  I think the most inspiring thing is the huge amount of construction that is taking place across the country.  In a city like Tanggu, which is just south east of Beijing. you are literally seeing a city being built in front of your eyes.  It has been designated a special economic zone, and the amount of construction is mind boggling.  There is an actual city being built.  Not just one or two buildings.  A whole city.  That is pretty inspiring to watch.

What is the saddest thing you have seen during your travels? (Keith Fowler)

I could say it's the beggars and poor people that you see trying to make ends meet everyday.  And I don't mean to get all Bob Geldoff, but I think the saddest thing that I see time and time again is just the huge amount of food that goes to waste.  It's part of Chinese culture that when you eat out, you order alot more than you can actually eat.  Especially if you are invited out by a local.  If you finish your plate, or finish everything, they get insulted and lose face because they did not order enough food for their guests. So, it is not uncommon to have dishes of food left after a meal. Depending on where you are, you can ask for a doggy bag and take it home.  Most of the time, it gets thrown out.  Very sad to see it go to waste.

Is Chinese pop music as bad as English pop music? (Bridget Emrose)

Yes, it's bad.  But very, very popular.  You look at a show like Pop Asia on SBS in Australia, and multiply it by one billion! Not only is the music bad, but the film clips are worse.  Although, it's like a car crash.  You just can't look away.  I blame reality TV. The Voice is China's biggest TV show at the moment, and it is just one of many that are creating over night pop sensations.  But of course, if I put my radio hat on, I would have to say I love it! Our listeners can't get enough of it!

How have you managed the language barrier? (Kieron Atkinson)

Kieron, the first month was tough. Very tough.  In some Asian countries I have travelled to, you always feel confident that some of the locals will know some English.  In China, not many people know English.  In my day to day job, I have the luxury of having a very good translator and colleague who does an amazing job at getting my points across, and vice versa.  Outside work, I am now at a stage where I can communicate the basic stuff.  The other day, I paid my mobile phone bill at a bank, and spoke entirely in Mandarin (ok, it was only 5 or 6 words, but it worked!).  So I am slowly cutting through the language barrier one phrase at a time (Oh, did I mention my mandarin teacher told me I was her best student?)

How confident are you that when you buy something electrical, you are actually getting the genuine article? (David Corkill)

Not very confident at all.  I bought a DVD/Mini Stereo online about 3 weeks ago, through a reputable website in China and what I got was the real deal.  But, I wouldn't have attempted to buy it in a store.  You might look at the real thing on the shelf, but what you get from "out the back" maybe something different. Counterfeit everything is big in China.  I'm in the market to buy a new watch, and I look at watches in department stores, and a little part of me wonders whether it's real, or fake.  So, I'm not going to buy a watch in China.  And I definitely won't be buying an iphone in China.  (The iphone 5 is not officially available in China until next month.  But it went on sale unofficially 5 hours after it was released in Hong Kong).


Thanks everyone for the great questions.  When I first accepted this position, I was very overwhelmed by what lay ahead.  Now I know, I am enjoying every minute of it and looking forward to each and every day.  China can be a big, scary place.  But all you need to do is scratch the surface a little, and you soon realise that it has many different layers - all as equally interesting as each other.

I will leave you with my latest Chinese photo.  This sign was at a research study we conducted in Xi'an about a month ago.  Like most things, you had to register when you arrived.  I think this sign was meant to say "Sign Here", or "Sign in Here".  I love when it gets lost in translation



Friday 14 September 2012

3 months on...I answer your questions!

As I mentioned during the week, I have now been living and working in China for 3 months.  In this latest blog, instead of me prattling on about my time so far, I asked you to come up with some questions for me (via Facebook).  I had so many great questions (and a few dodgy ones), that I will split it into 2 parts.  See, that's just the radio person in me hooking you through to the next blog.

These questions are in no particular order (and thank you to everyone who contributed).

Does it feel Communist? (Ingrid Argo)

Because of where I live and work and where I travel, most of the time it doesn't feel communist.  But this week it did.  I want to send some money back to Australia, so I can pay some bills etc.  China does not like foreigners sending money out of the country, and they make it very difficult.  First, you have to go to the Tax Office to get a certificate to prove you have paid tax in China.  Then, you go to your bank with this certificate, your employment agreement, your passport, and your work permit and organise the transfer.  You are also limited on how much you can send out of the country each year, plus you have to take all these documents to the bank EVERY time you want to transfer (with an updated tax certificate).
I started this process on Monday.  It is now Friday, and my money is still sitting in my Chinese bank account (they had no record of me at the tax office).  So yes, this week, it felt very communist.

How can you tell if the announcers are breaking codes training? (Kymba Cahill)

You would love this Kymba - not! Because all the stations are owned by the government (we simply partner with the government in each our markets), every station has a censor.  Yep, that's right.  Someone who is there to look over and/or approve everything that goes to air.  In most situations they don't actually approve everything, or look at anything, but they are there just to keep everyone on their toes.  Plus our announcers are very careful on what they say, because they don't want to upset the party.

Have you had any "what the f*** moments?" (Keith Tan)

I think my first real WTF moment happened in my first week in China.  The team in the Beijing office went to Qingdao for the weekend as a bit of a team bonding session.  Qingdao is a beachside city where most Chinese in the north go for their holiday.  I spent the weekend, on a bus, going from one location to another, with a group of people I just met who could not speak a word of English.  So, I felt very isolated during that weekend, and many times I asked myself  "what the f*** am I doing in China?".  But I soon realised that the team in Beijing were very shy, and reserved because they are all "office people", and felt a little intimidated.  Things have got alot better now I have been to all the stations, amongst the expressive, outgoing people.

Are you a full-time squatter?  (Dan van der Meer)

Dan, let's put it this way, I am not a full-time squatter and if presented with the choice of a normal toilet or a squat, I would always go for the normal toilet.  But, I am now very confident with the squat.  I have mastered the position, and like everyone in China, carry a supply of toilet paper with me(squat toilets never have loo paper).  But, I do still get a little surprised when I use the squat toilets in some remote areas, because most of them don't have doors. I am still not sure of the no-door squat toilet etiquette.  Do I acknowledge my fellow squatters when I walk in?  Maybe with a simple nod.  Not sure on this one.

What is the most bizarre food that you've eaten? (Ben De Jonge)

I had to think about this one for a few minutes Ben.  Let's see.  I have tried donkey, which was OK.  I've eaten a ducks head (too many bones for my liking), but said no to the ducks blood soup.  I also tried some goose, which really just tasted like chicken.  Probably the most bizarre food to date would be jellyfish, which I ate last week.  When it came out, I didn't know what it was, and the 2 people I was with didn't know the English word for it.  All they could say was that it was from the sea.  So, I looked up the word jellyfish on my Iphone app, and showed them the Chinese word.  Yep, it's jellyfish.  By this stage I had tried it, and actually enjoyed it.  Oh, I just remembered.  I had spicy chicken gizzards too.

How challenging is it developing a team with such a big communication barrier? (Blake Beale)

Very challenging.  Most of the staff I work with on a daily basis don't speak English, so I am using a translator for alot of my communication.  Things that could be explained in 30 minutes, end up taking alot longer because of the translation, and making sure everyone understands what I am saying.  Most of the time, I will have to repeat things, because what we are doing is trying to change habits which have developed over time.  There is alot of cultural change.  Sometimes they fall back into their old ways, and we have to repeat the process.  Most of the foundations of format radio and what we are doing have already been laid, it is now trying to get them to keep growing and to keep moving forward.  It's very challenging, but it's also a very rewarding experience of teaching people how to do something that I take for granted.

What's the one thing you miss most about Western civilisation? (Matt Paton)

I suppose the one thing I miss the most is being able to go somewhere, anywhere, and no matter where it is people can understand what I'm saying, and I can understand them.  Not many Chinese can speak English, so it really tests your will power and patience when you can't communicate.  I am just about to finish my first 32 hours of mandarin lessons, and that has made it alot easier to communicate on basic things.  I can order a meal, ask for a drink, I now know dates and times and money, and how to introduce myself, and ask for directions.  But when confronted with something I don't know, it's very hard.  Thank god for the great group of expats that I have met where we can talk with each other without using hand gestures.

One word of wisdom for someone moving to China? (Megan Bilaloski)

Be patient.  Things happen when they happen, and not before.  It is a big bureaucracy, a country of 1.4 billion people, and it will test your patience.  I am now used to getting on planes (on time), and then the plane sitting on the tarmac for 60 minutes "..due to air traffic congestion." I'm used to waiting in line at the train station to buy a ticket, and for every Chinese person to push in  front of me.  I have learned to use my shoulders and elbows getting on and off trains, because they don't wait for anyone.  You want to get on that train, you have to elbow your way through.

Be patient.

Next week: What is the most inspirational thing, and the saddest thing, I have seen so far? What did I find weird when I first arrived, and now take for granted.  Plus, Jo Macarthur asks the big question, "Do they have honey chicken in China?".

I will leave you with one of my favourite photos.  This is me singing karaoke with the programming team in Hefei. I think I was singing a Billy Joel song (no surprises really)





Tuesday 4 September 2012

Someone tell me what is happening!

Last week I finally got to travel to Urumqi.  Urumqi is the furthest city away from Beijing where MyFM has a station, and it's close to Uzbekistan, Kazihkstan, Pakistan, and all the other -stans.  It's a melting pot of different cultures - Chinese, muslims and Russians make up the majority.  Because of the large muslim population, the road signs are no longer in Chinese and English.  It's Chinese and Arabic.

Driving from the airport to our hotel, my boss asked me what my first impression was.  Honestly, it felt like I was in a middle eastern country.  The signs, the people, and even the buildings had a middle eastern appearance/feel to them.

Let me skip forward a few days to the story behind my blog this week.  I flew out of Urumqi last Friday.  I was warned to get to the airport a little earlier because of the heavy security.  Plus, the city was about to play host to the Eurasian Economic Expo, so security was very, very high.  Before I got on the plane, I was screened, x-rayed, patted down, screened again, feet x-rayed (yes, just my feet) and 2 random explosive tests.

The flight from Urumqi top Bejing was about 3 hours, so I settled back with my book and enjoyed the flight.  I have flown many times, and (for those who don't know) I am also a licensed private pilot.  I have an understanding of how planes work, when they do what they are supposed to do - and when something doesn't sound right.  So nothing about air travel really worries me.

About 30 minites before we were due to land at Beijing, and still flying at 30,000 feet, a great noise came from below the aircraft as the pilot lowered the landing gear.  At 30,000 feet?  Where were we landing? On Mount Everest?

This was immediately followed by the cabin staff madly rushing around the cabin telling people to fasten seatbelts, put your seat up and tray table away etc.  There was a little panic to the way they were doing it, and judging by the look on other passengers faces, they were panicked too.  One of the flight attendants came on the PA and explained (in Chinese) what was going on.  Normally, all their Chinese announcements are then followed up with English versions.  But not this time.

I asked one of the flight attendants walking past what was happening?  She looked at me blankly, and I repeated my question.  She told me to fasten my seatbelt (which was already fastened).  I then realised that they don't actually speak English.  I think they learn the basic phrases like "welcome aboard", "fasten your seat belts" and "would you like beef or chicken?"  When you ask them something else, they don't how to answer because that's not on the script.

At this stage, I am starting to panic a little.  Why would you need the landing gear loweret at 30,000 feet?  I asked the Chinese guy next to me what was happening.  He shook his head and gestured he did not understand me.

So, here I was, the only non-Chinese person on a plane flying at 30,000 feet with the landing gear down, and no one could explain what was happening.  However, if we were going to crash, I could happily get either beef or chicken as my last meal.

After about 10 minutes the landing gear came up, and we started to descend.  Crisis everted.  Well so I thought.

We were making our final approach to Beijing airport.  Flaps were down, as was the landing gear.  Suddenly, the pilot applied full power, and we began to climb.  The gear was raised, and we performed a go-around (attempt to land again).

OK, something has to be wrong.  Why did we lower the landing gear at 30,000 feet?  And why now are we trying to land again.  Maybe our landing gear fell off, and the pilot was checking it at 30,000 feet?  My mind was playing different scenarios. 

We came around for our second attempt and I have to say my heart was in my throat as we touched down.  I expected the landing gear to collapse, and for us to skid down the runway and 300 mph.  But no, we landed safely, and as I got off the plane I looked back to make sure we had all the wheels.

So, what did happen on board flight CA1902 from Urumqi that Friday afternoon?  Why did the pilot lower the landing gear at 30,000 feet?  Why did we have to go around and try to land again?  And should I have had the beef instead of the chicken for lunch?

I know the language barrier is difficult sometimes, but when you're in a large cigar shaped metal tube flying at 30,000 feet, and something goes wrong, it's just a little scary when no one can answer your questions.