Tuesday 17 September 2013

Six things you need to know about Urumqi

So, where was I......

Last time I blogged (back in July) I was describing what it was like travelling by fast train in China.  Many things have happened since then, so I thought it time to bring you up to speed on my adventure.  If you've just tuned in, let me bring you up to speed:

1.  I am living and working in China, and have been since July last year
2.  My job takes me to many different cities in China, and
3.  I am still scared of using squat toilets

I am currently General Manager of Content for a group of radio stations in China.  Currently we have 7 stations, and expanding to 10 in the next 12 months.  We have stations in Nanjing, Nanchang, Hefei, Xi'an, Changchun, Tianjin and Urumqi.  Today's blog (as you would have guessed by the title) is about my recent trip to Urumqi, and six things you need to know.


1.  Urumqi should be called Urumqi-stan

Urumqi is located in the North West of China and is the capital of Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, about a 3.5 hour flight from Beijing.  The unique thing about time zones in China is they are all on the one time.  So even though Urumqi is 2500 km's away from Beijing, it still has the same time zone.  It would almost be like Sydney and Perth having the same time.  Which makes for a strange experience - it's still dark at 7am in the morning, and still light at 9pm at night..

Urumqi is a very unique city in China, as it has a very diverse population.  Because of it's proximity to Russia and the Middle East (it should be called Urumqi-stan because it is surrounded by Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan - all the Stans!), it also has a large Muslim population.  In most other cities in China, road signs are in Chinese and English.  In Urumqi, the road signs are in Chinese, English, and Arabic.

2.  Security is tight!

If you follow the news, you might have heard about the trouble in Xinjiang province.  Like most parts of the world, it all comes down to religious differences.  In July, a group of extreme Islamists attacked a police station in Xinjiang province, killing over 20 people.  So, as you can imagine, security is tight.  Every hotel, shopping centre, and major street, has police and security presence.  At the airport, your bag gets screened twice, you get a "full" pat down (including your feet getting scanned), and then when walking onto the plane, you also get checked for explosives.

Our station is owned by the Xinjiang Broadcasting Station - a big complex housing both radio and TV stations.  Again, because of the security presence, foreigners are not allowed in without an escort.  On Monday when I arrived, I had to phone my Program Manager to come and let me in.  However,  Tuesday was a different story.  The security guards had changed, and they would not let me in - even with my escort.  It took several phone calls to the station bosses, and finally one of them had to come down to sweet talk the grump guard to let me pass.  I managed to sneak this photo of the guards.  I am sure if they had discovered me taking this photo, they would not have been happy.

3.  Feels like a different country

Because of the population diversity, it feels like you are somewhere in the middle east (even though I have never been to the middle east).  The combination of people, signs, food, and even architecture, you get the feeling you're "not in Kansas anymore".

On Saturday night, one of the girls and her husband took us out to dinner.  We drove to the outskirts of the city, and it was such a contrast to cities like Beijing.  You could actually see the surrounding countryside.  It felt like a street in another part of the world.  We also went to the Muslim market, where again, the architecture felt like you were strolling the streets of Turkey.

The bazaar sold mostly Muslim food and souvenirs, but it was such a surreal experience walking around this very middle eastern market, but still in China.  And again because there is also a large population of Russians (Urumqi is close to Russia too), I kept getting mistaken for a Russian.  It could have been the white hair, or the fact I was carrying around and drinking a bottle of vodka.  I'm not sure.





3.  Their squat toilets are even worse in Urumqi.

If you've been reading my blogs, you will know that I am not a fan of the squat toilets.  In most parts of China, I am constantly faced with the squat toilet.  Ok, I have now sort of mastered the experience, but it still scares me - and in Urumqi, the toilets are even worse.

The restaurant we went to on Saturday night, as I said, was on the outskirts of Urumqi.  It was recommended by our host, so we went along to try some Xinjiang food (which, if you like your food spicy, you will love!).  When we arrived, I popped off to use the toilet (only Number 1's).  As I walked in, I noticed a big drum of water and a scoop inside the drum.  It wasn't until I finished and reached for the flush button, that I realised what the water was for.  Yep, you had to use the water to "flush" manually.  Well, that's a new experience.  And to prove I am telling the truth, here is a photo of said water drum.


4.  Technology is everywhere!

Technology has infiltrated all areas of China.  Smart phone sales are through the roof, and pretty much everyone has access to the internet.  But it still surprises me when I see it in rural areas.  Again, in the restaurant in Urumqi, it was a very basic place (I mean, look at the toilet).  The decor was old and tired, it looked dirty, rundown, and it would be something you would see on Gordon Ramsay's "Kitchen Nightmares".

However, as rundown and basic as it was, the waitresses still took our orders electronically.  Yep, that's right.  It was all entered into a hand held ordering system , and sent to the kitchen electronically.

5.  They possibly invented the Shandy

I was introduced to a new style of beer in Urumqi.  I have to admit,  I was not feeling all that well last weekend when we ventured out, and really wanted to avoid beer.  But when I was told it was like "beer mixed with honey" I thought I would give it a try.

So, out came the Kawas.  And I have to say, it was pretty good.  It tasted more like a Shandy (beer and lemonade) than beer and honey, but it was refreshing.  I was told it was a local drink which had been made for years.  Which got me thinking, did the people of Xinjiang actually invent the Shandy?

6.  Urumqi is one of the most polluted cities in China

You may not guess by this photo, but Urumqi is one of the most polluted cities in China.  It is situated in a valley, so on heavy pollution days, the pollution just hangs in the sky.  This time of year (as you can see) it's nice blue skies.  In fact, everyday I was there, we had similar weather.  But in winter, when the temperature drops to around -17, people crank up the heaters, and the pollution level goes through the roof.


This was only my second visit to Urumqi.  Because of it's proximity, it's hard to find the time to get up there.  Plus, the station is making money and the radio audience ratings are good, so I have not been required in the last 12 months. It's a nice city, but as I said, it does feel like you are in another country.

I will leave you with this photo. I took this photo in a shopping centre in Urumqi.  I noticed parents of this girl encouraging her to pose for this photo.  She is standing next to a photo (yes it's only a photo) on the wall.  They parents thought it was hilarious.  And so did I.....


Tomorrow I am doing something completely different - flying to the US for 4 days to see Jerry Seinfeld live in Peoria, Illinois.  I know, crazy right?  Well, I am sure there will be good Blog material.

Zaijian!


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